Kashmiri Cusine: Aaz Kya Chu Ronmut?

Reported by Disha Tandon
Mumbai, 10th December 2024: Food is not just for survival; food is memory, history, emotion, and identity. For a half-Kashmiri Pandit in Mumbai’s bright chaos I would crave the cuisines of Kashmir as that connects me to my roots and is a soothing balm on the soul. In Mumbai, where a variety of dishes from every corner of India can be found, the Kashmiri food remains a precious gem buried in the kitchens of the ones who cherish it.

This article is a journey through the flavours of the Kashmiri Pandit plate, an exploration of its emotional and cultural significance, and a celebration of its enduring legacy.

Kashmiri Food in Mumbai: A Taste of Home, Far from Home

In Mumbai, Kashmiri Pandits often talk about the difficulty in finding authentic ingredients. Vegetables like haak (collard greens) and mong (a type of leafy green) are often unavailable or lack the quality they possess in the Valley. Despite this, Kashmiri families recreate their beloved dishes with love and care, often invoking the sentiment of “maa ke haath ka khaana” (the comfort of food made by a mother’s hands).

One touching story comes to mind: my sister once employed a pregnant maid during the pandemic who would yearn for homemade food. However, after having simple Kashmiri meals at her home, she felt a sense of relief and a tad bit stronger to keep carrying on. These dishes, though plain by some standards, carried a unique ability to satiate both body and soul.

A Legacy of Flavors Born of History

Kashmir has been a crossroads of trade, culture, and ideas in the Himalayas for a long time. The cuisine of the valley reflects its position on ancient trade routes and the influences of saints, Sufis, and rulers who left their mark on the region.

Saffron is often called the gold of Kashmir and is one such legacy of the valley. Its subtle scent enhances the food and acts as a memory of nature’s richness. The reliance of Kashmiri cuisine on mustard oil, asafoetida, and numerous spices including fennel and dried ginger speaks to the ingenuity of its people who create a separate culinary identity from their surroundings.

The Kashmiri Pandit Plate: Vegetarian Delights

Although the food of Kashmir is commonly equated with Wazwan-a meat feast-the Kashmiri Pandit table boasts an amazing variety of vegetarian dishes. These are typically garlic-and onion-free dishes spiced up by asafoetida.

Haak (Collard Greens)

Haak is a simple yet iconic dish of collard greens steamed with asafoetida and whole red or green chilies. It is a staple in Kashmiri households, equally at home in frugal meals or elaborate feasts.

Dum Aloo

Dum Aloo is definitely not to be missed with any Kashmiri feast. Small potatoes are boiled, fried in mustard oil, and then simmered in the gravy, which is enriched with fennel powder and the heat of Kashmiri red chilies. This dish certainly is the darling of vegetarians and non-vegetarians.

Nadru Yakhni

Nadru, or lotus stem, is the star of this yogurt-based curry spiced with fennel, dried ginger, and asafoetida. It has a subtle taste and textured that the dish is exceptional.

Tsok Vangun (Tangy Brinjals)

Long, pink brinjals are fried and simmered in tamarind or lemon juice, fennel powder, and asafoetida. This is a tangy dish that really goes well with rice.

Mujj’e Chyetin

This cooling side dish, including grated radish mixed into curd, green chilis, and salt, would complement spiced curries.

Tahar- Yellow Rice

Tahar, or turmeric rice, is a simple food that is often prepared for festivals. It is also prepared as blessed food. Its bright colour and subtle flavor make for a staple during celebrations.

The Meaty Side of Kashmiri Cuisine

Meat, especially lamb, is the staple for Kashmiri Pandits. Prepared with utmost care to please the taste buds, these dishes reflect the community’s culinary artistry.

Rogan Josh

Perhaps the most famous Kashmiri dish, Rogan Josh is lamb braised in a gravy of fennel, asafoetida, and dried ginger, finished with Kashmiri red chilies. Its rich aroma and deep red hue make it a showstopper.

Kabargah

Lamb ribs are boiled in a spiced mixture of milk and water, marinated in curd, and deep-fried in ghee. This dish, often served as a starter, is a mark of Kashmiri hospitality.

Gaad (Fish Dishes)

Fish is another delicacy in Kashmiri cuisine. Mooli Gaad pairs fish with radish, while Muej Gaad combines it with lotus stems. These dishes exemplify the delicate balance of spices that defines Kashmiri cooking.

Non-Veg Yakhni

This is a version of the traditional yakhni. It contains lamb in a lightly spiced yogurt-based gravy, flavoured with fennel and asafoetida.

Kali and Maxch

Kali is a lovely meat dish made with Kashmiri spices. Maxch brings out tender mutton in rich gravy.

Charwan

This one includes marinated meat, all cooked to perfection in mustard oil. It creates an experience of flavour and satisfaction.

Snacks, Sides, and Beverages

Olav Churme and Nadir Churme

These crispy potato and lotus stem chips are deep fried in mustard oil and reddened with red chili powder. They’re a hot favourite among kids and oldies alike.

Sheer Chai

A beautiful Kashmiri tea, Sheer Chai, is pink in color with a salty flavour and traditional breads such as lavasa and bakarkhani. Its different flavor surely gives a feeling of belonging to the individualistic Kashmir.

Kehva

Kehva: Steamed green tea mixed with almonds, cardamom, and cinnamon is a hallmark of hospitality in Kashmir. Warming it up is energizing yet comforting.

Bread and Beyond

The breads of Kashmir can tell stories of trade and culture and community. Lavasa, kulchas, bakarkhani, and katlam to name a few varieties enjoyed with tea or meals, these breads, quite often made in the small traditional bakeries, complete the Kashmiri life circle.

Food as a Bridge to Home and Identity

For Kashmiri Pandits, food is a way more than just a means to survive-it is a heritage preserved and celebrated. Families would find refuge in the culinary dishes of their childhood long after exodus from the Valley in unfamiliar surroundings, keeping alive traditions in distant lands.

Kashmiri Pandit cuisine faces challenges. Being restricted to families or finding mediocre versions of it at restaurants, it struggles in between forces of remembrance and relevance.

In Mumbai, the pursuit of authentic Kashmiri food often leads one back to one’s own kitchen. Recipes passed from generation to generation becomes a way to reconnect with roots and renew bonds with culture.

A Story of Resilience Through Cuisine

The story of Kashmiri Pandit cuisine is one of resilience. It is a testament to how food can be a bridge that carries along love, history, and spirit of a community.

As I enjoy a bowl of Dum Aloo and a cup of Kehva in the busy metropolis of Mumbai, I am reminded of the simple yet profound question that encapsulates the essence of Kashmiri life: “Aaz kya chu ronmut?” (What’s cooking today?)

We pandits continue to navigate through the complexities of culture, identity, and belonging, which often circles back to this enduring question lingering quietly over the fence.