The #indiacollective fashion extravaganza featured five top brands at LFW SR 2016

The #indiacollective show created excitement on the ramp when five top fashion brands revealed their crafts and textiles innovations at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2016. Creators of the most amazing eco-conscious, organic and sustainable fabrics, the brands have taken the beauty of India’s textiles and craft to the fashion capitals of the world.

AISH – GLORIOUSLY HANDMADE AND WOVEN

The AISH label created by Nupur Goenka with the collection ‘The Expedition’ made a fascinating impact on the ramp with its handmade and woven creations. Using crafts from Bengal, Pashmina and Khamir cotton from Gujarat created a great ‘AISH Life Journey’.

Selecting the perennial favourites black and white for the colour card with small hints of bright hues; the collection was replete with craft techniques like mirror work, batik and Jamdani weaves. Keeping the silhouettes flowing and feminine, the fabrics were delicate and totally summer appropriate with the stylish smocked and specially woven scarves. Particularly eye-catching were the drop waist pleated dress, the negative/positive black/white mini, kaftans with geometric prints and a checked maxi with a long-sleeve mirror work coat. Ideal for mercury rising holidays, travel and vacations by the pool side, AISH’s cool as the sea breeze line ‘The Expedition’ was an ideal addition for a jet setter’s luggage.

DEEPA GURNANI – DECONSTRUCTED JEWELLERY

Deconstructed and reimaged jewellery by Deepa Gurnani along with Jay Lakhani called ‘Oblivion’ was presented in an innovative form under the arc lights with the theme being ‘Live as One’. Brass was combined with mini pompoms, and crystals; while blood red stones glittered on antique metal and gilded feathered pieces. Semi-precious stones worked with embroidered jewels but the watery hues of blue, grey, soft waves, rivers, streams and faded pastels came seamlessly together with mother of pearl, metal, sequins for aemone flowers.

The richness of the earth and desert also inspired the jewellery and were visible with geodes of rocks, Druzy and lava beads with colours like red, earth tones and sun splashes. Hair accessories were given pride of place in the collection as crystallised statements had black and glittering gold accents. The flowing black, very tribal inspired garments that formed the base of the jewellery, brought to centre stage Deepa’s fashion design creativity.

Deepa Gurnani’s handmade accessories called ‘Oblivion’ reflected the true beauty and grandeur of Indian colours jewellery and clothes, which are perfect additions for summer wear.

INJIRI –RUSTIC FASHION REVIVAL

Bringing back the rustic beauty and glamour of Kutch to centre stage, the Injiri label created by Chinar Farooqui presented ‘Rebari’ a collection of traditional elegance revived for the contemporary dresser. It was an ode to the weaver’s stills  Inspired by the unstitched skirts called Pernu and Pachedi turbans; the colour scheme followed the white and black path but with simple textures and weft cross borders. The special hand woven and spun, organic, cotton from Bhujodi Kutch got a grand revival by Injiri on the ramp. The draped garments with large accents on traditional clothing were the focal point of the collection. Bringing a mix of easy western wear, the colours were black and white with striped pants, bias yoke blouse, smocks, palazzos, striped jackets, kedia style tops, midis with skirts, gathered summer dress and a long sleeved black maxi pinafore with interesting yoke detailing.

When it comes to timeless Indian traditional textiles and garments with a modern twist, the Injiri collection ‘Rebari’ by Chinar Farooqui will be one of the driving forces on the fashion front.

MAKU  – REVIVING TEXTILE HERITAGE

Believing in slow fashion and sustainability, Santanu Das and Chirag Gandhi of Maku presented a mono chrome collection in just ecru and indigo. With hand-woven indigo dyed natural yarns, the eight hand stitched garments had a uniform silhouette of empire line smocks with loose knotted-at-the-back shirts, but created in different fabrics. Inspired by air, water and sky, the collection highlighted the textile traditions and prints of Bengal. Presenting muslin, Jamdani, fine cotton, linen and silk, the look was fluid and cool, ideal for the hot days and cool nights. Maku have also experimented with the Tangail sari in the past and brought it to centre stage. Ensuring that there was no wastage, while creating the garments, the designers of Maku worked with craft and fabrics to showcase a striking, practical, long lasting collection.

NOR BLACK NOR WHITE – ADDING GLORIOUS COLOUR

Amrit Kumar and Mriga Kapadiya founders of ‘Nor Black Nor White’ called their collection “100% Pure Love” and it was a colourful line of garments that were ideal summer wear. Working with three distinct fabrics – clamp dyed silks from Kutch, vibrant cotton checks from Kerala and striking Ikats from Andhra Pradesh; the pair created a multicoloured cool range. The Kutch section had feminine flouncy silhouettes, like embroidered bolero but for ikat the designers brought unisex looks to the forefront. For the Kerala checks it was the eye-catching Kerala gold handloom Mushru, which had a marked regal air about it. Long blousons, Bermudas, loose tunics, multicoloured kaftans, floppy jackets presented a versatile offering. Layering was done creatively making “100% Pure Love” a retro line with 90’s inspired styling for men’s and women’s wear. Here was fashion from the internationally well-known brand ‘Nor Black Nor White’ a must-have for summer.